From one of the oldest Riesling vineyards in California, Wirz has become an unlikely staple in our cadre of white wines. For me, the greatest sites we work with do not just check all the boxes of a good vineyard—good soils, fine farming, proper variety for terroir, etc. Though those are all extremely important and necessary, the sites and the wines I continually come back to and love most are those that also possess personality and soul, wines that manifest the love of the caretaker in their surroundings. When I drink Wirz, I think of the wildness of the vineyard setting, surrounded by golden California chaparral, the starkly plunging lines of the eastern Gabilans, of the small but barrel-chested Pat Wirz driving a large but equally enduring old cat-tracked tractor with a billow of limestone and granitic dust looming behind him. For me this Riesling is the totality of the that—savory, textured and uniquely Californian in all of its lofted, golden glory.