Bruno Clair Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2014
Wine Advocate 96 - The 2014 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru has a tightly wound, stony and rather stoic bouquet at first, one that demands patience. This is not as immediate as its peers. Eventually there are subtle rose petal notes, orange zest and cold granite aromas that unfurl, giving a fleeting glimpse -- a premonition of what is to come. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannin, touches of orange rind infusing the blackberry and blueberry fruit, controlled and quite structured towards the finish that has great nervosité. Alongside the Clos Saint-Jacques this is Bruno Clair's best 2014.
Burghound 95 - A brooding and much less expressive nose grudgingly reveals notes of both red and dark berries, earth, tangerine peel and spice nuances. This is even bigger and more powerful with its mouth coating broad-shouldered flavors that possess plenty of muscle before culminating in an explosive but tightly wound finish that just goes on and on. This is quite simply terrific but at the risk of sounding like a broken record, plenty of patience will be required.
International Wine Cellar 94 - Medium red Sexy scents of cranberry, dried flowers, dried herbs, pepper and spices Wonderfully dense and sappy on the palate In a cooler, more metallic style than the Clos de Bèze but with superb precision and energy Harder to taste today but the wine's tactile palate-staining finish and uncanny energy suggest that it will be a real long-distance runner Two-thirds of these vines were planted between 1965 and 1978 but the Clos de Bèze is older.
The 2014 Bonnes Mares, a wine of immense concentration and layered flavors that should age gracefully for 20+ years if kept well. This is a balanced vintage marked by classically structured reds built for the long haul. In the glass this displays a deep garnet hue with ruby highlights at the rim. The aromas are dense and heady, with perfumed notes of black cherry, blueberry, persimmon, wild flowers, dried orange rind, rose petals, wet rocks and delicate exotic oak spices which seem to evolve every few minutes. The palate is complex, with multi-layered flavors similar to the nose. It is important to note this wine requires patience if drinking in its youth; pull the cork 5-6 hours early and leave the wine in the cellar (or a cool dark spot) to slowly open up before serving at 60-65 degrees in large Burgundy stems. Then watch the show unfold. The true peak of this wine will not be seen for more than a decade, so do your best to keep your hands off it as long as possible, but I will admit this wine is simply stunning now! If you can’t hold off, pair it with something suitably dramatic, like the attached crown roast of pork from chef Tyler Florence. That’ll make for good times.