This is becoming very fine, and watch out; it's entirely different from its old apples-and-butter form, more oystery and chalky and ginger and talc, with the apple-butter thing skulking in the mid-palate. It's racy, on the tensile side. The NV Brut Cuvée Ste.-Anne is one of the best Champagnes readers will find in its price range, or any price range, for that matter. Bright and beautifully focused, the Ste.-Anne has so much to offer. The purity of the flavors is just remarkable. If anything, it needs more time on the cork to soften, as it is quite reticent at this stage.