Strub Niersteiner Paterberg Spatlese 2019

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50+ year old vines, grown on limestone in a high windy plateau, so there’s never botrytis, which in turn permits a very long hang-time. Here’s where a perfect cognate appears, because this wine smells and tastes exactly like lemon-grass. There’s always a zippy length, but this ’15 is really balanced on a buzzing steel wire.

The signature-flavors run to lemon grass and the minty herbs; mint itself, tarragon, Japanese green teas(Sencha and Gyokoru), spicy apples (Empires) and lime-zest; wintergreen too-you get the picture. Peachy it's not. But there's a kind of density of spice, as if set alight on the palate. These are iridescently scintillating wines, ultra-violet and fabulous at the table.


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